Days 8-10: Andenes to Å (Lofoten)
Ridiculous.
Day 8: Andenes - Stokmarknes. 84mi - 780m.
Ditch those base layers, I'm baking!
So, from -2°C to +25°C in a week... & still in the Arctic... madness!!
Passing a herd of Reindeer grazing in the heay by sparkling blue water was quite bizarre.
I was to swoop down the western edge of the island "Andøya", known to be the puffin island. It revealed rural fields looking out onto inlets of calm blue, with obviously snow-topped mountains being the permanent backdrop.
Lots of small villages passed, I was pleasantly surprised to find more regular places to buy water (I'm talking every 20mi maybe, as opposed to 50-70!).
Eventually I came to 'the blue city' of Sortland. Wow. Its bridge was framed by a collection of glistening white peaks, their beauty enhanced by the deep blue beam of water beneath them.
I met a local cyclist on the large cycle/pedestrian path which runs alogside the roads in the towns here (useful & safer, however often of a poor surface which hurts my saddle sores!). She had moved up from Oslo, but had regretted her decision sadly. She kindly pointed out a pharmacy for me. I nipped in to get some cream for another minor niggly issue, & treated myself to a 10min break with an ice pop in the sun :)
Only 20mi now to my campsite for the night, where I had the most peaceful dinner (thankfully pre-made: yesterday's pasta & lentils leftovers).
Day 9, 8/6/17:
Stokmarknes to Valberg, Lofoten
91mi - 1106m
Words will never adequately describe the beauty of this place. Unbelievable.
I like to leave plenty of time with catching ferries/planes etc (as things often, and do, go wrong. I've missed a flight previously, don't you know!). Sadly packing everything up took longer than planned, so I had less time to do the 10mi to catch the ferry to Melbu, the northern entry port to the Lofoten islands. Ahhh! I raced around the flat smooth tarmac, alongside the constant companion to my left of stunning white mountain after mountain - can't wait to be with you Lofotens!!
Passed a lot of school groups cycling. Kids don't say hey back - rude!
Made it 30min early, no way. I can clearly make up speed when i need to!
25min ferry journey later, I hit the main Lofoten road (E10), & within 2min I couldn't believe my eyes. They got quite wet.
Winding around the hillsides, I was passing each perfectly painted scene - deep blue waters, rising a mystical haze upwards to the jagged peaks framing them. Each mountain's snowy hairline was now receding with the heat, resulting in roaring waterfalls all around. Finally rich greenery dressed the banks of the water & the mountain edges, as if spring had just arrived.
I think I've found my new favourite place in the world.
Through to Svolvaer, one of the biggest towns, to get supplies for the day. Unfortunately I'm sometimes having to accept the odd non-vegan snacks for easy calories whilst on the road. Surprised my body can take animal products ok.
I'd chosen to split the Lofotens into two days, instead of one crazily long one. As a direct route, it'd only be 100ish miles. So because I felt I had two 'easy' days, I felt like I had the time & freedom to actually explore, & see the place. How exciting! Like on a 'real' cycle tour.
This meant that I inadvertently racked up the mileage...but in the most enjoyable way, & even with lots of little breaks!
I found the first of many a stunning beach, Rørvik. Then wound along the smaller roads to a fishing village, & apparently Lofotens climbing mecca (I'll definitely be coming back): Henningsvaer. Here I had a lunch stop with a Polish guy, he moves countries every 4-8months. He actually lived in Liverpool for a bit, & beamingly kept repeating how it's the best city in the world.
Back to the E10, I had an option to do a 20mi detour around the circumference of a smaller island...hmm..it's 1700... I'm in no rush, & have another "easy" day tomorrow- let's do it!
Circling the quiet island of Gimsøya, I saw a seal after meeting a nature photographer (with a camera which I thought was a car engine!), more incredibly perfect deserted white beaches being lapped by bright aqua waters, & met some interesting looking birds in the hidden marshes on the back roads. Nearly out of water, & still in 24°C heat, I found their one shop, 15min before closing time- get in!
Finally onwards to my campsite for the night, where after setting up camp in the wind (that was difficult), & meeting the first english people this trip, I enjoyed my last packet of beanfeast (eh oh!) & pasta at around 2100.
Day 10, 9/6/17: Valberg to Å (south Lofotens)
Day 8 of riding - 69mi - 1070m
It gets even better.
Knowing a direct route to the end of the south Lofotens would only be around 50 miles, I allowed myself a later and relaxed start. In the sunny, morning heat, sat by the waters' edge of my campsite, I was sipping a coffee and catching up on the UK's catastrophic political issues - total bliss.
The english couple I'd met the previous day came along, and I found that they not only climb in the peaks, but own a house in the Pyrenees (amazing), the chap is a retired ITU consultant, and was actually also born on the Wirral!
Another fellow camper, from Germany, decided to rant at me for a while about how inappropriately stringent Norwegian speed limits are (80-90km ph on the biggest road, which suits me as a cyclist very nicely..), before I politely dismissed myself to pack up & head off.
My continuing knee pain has made me question my seat height, despite having had a 'bike fit' (where the bike was altered to suit the angles & measures of my body), pre-trip. I had adjusted it the previous day, to make it higher, which had briefly helped, but later on niggly 'pulling' had returned. Fortunately I'd packed a lightweight material tape measure for when I was rebuilding my bike after flying, and knowing my ideal measurement, I checked it. Hmm, it was much lower for some reason. I had a sneaky feeling it had been falling...
After 5 miles into the day it rapidly slumped down as I hit a lump on the road - bingo - this has been the issue!
The attachment of a bottle cage to my top tube, had actually stopped the clip that holds the seatube in place from fully tightening. So I moved the bottle cage, and forced the tightener back into position, and re-measured the seatube. Hopefully no further knee problems now. I feel like a proper cyclist/someone who knows what they're actually doing now ;) ha.
I felt I should indulge in some mild exploration once again today, & see some of the picturesque beaches these islands are famed for. Haukland beach was one of these, although as it is one of the biggest, it was extremely popular. I gave myself a short break to enjoy the GUACAMOLE I found at the supermarket in their largest town (oh yes! & cream-free, unlike the packaged stuff at home).
Further southwards towards Å, the next town for 20 miles, Napp, had nothing but a very cold and long sub-sea tunnel... nearly out of water, a kind local filled my bottle up from her kitchen. Yay! Note, I should always carry more water than required, even in places that seem well populated.
Hitting Vareid and the evening sun, the hamlet looked out over a fjord backed by a variance of mountain size and shapes, beyond 'Flakstad', all a hazy snow white. Stunning! The circumferential main road passed bay after bay of white sand being lapped by aqua waters, once again. So so beautiful.
Eventually downhill into the also famed town of Ramberg, I got some further supplies to take me the last 20-30 miles. This is when I was faced with the 'real' Lofoten villages, particularly one called Reine. They are the most cute miniature collections of traditional buildings: red and yellow wooden 'rorbuer' (fishermen's cabins), raised high above their calm sheltered waters on stilts. Curved around these settlements are jagged sun-blessed peaks. I had to take some moments to appreciate their tranquil beauty.
Unfortunately, I had left it quite late, approaching 20:30, and knowing I had dinner to cook (I was carrying the extra weight of chickpeas, stir fry veg, sauce & noodles), and a proceeding day of a 5am get up with a 100+ miles to do. It's very hard to enjoy the moment with this weighing heavily on my mind.
Onwards through some incredible balcony-type tunnels built into the cliffsides, I eventually got to a hostel at Å.
I chatted to a couple living in Trondheim, and met a very sweet English lady who lives in the same Peak District town as my grandmother, before heading straight to bed.
Thanks for your support and interest :)
Please help support aid in Syria - www.alaina.org.uk - Thank you!
Day 8: Andenes - Stokmarknes. 84mi - 780m.
Ditch those base layers, I'm baking!
 |
| Shorts time already! |
 |
| The first of many a beautiful beach |
Passing a herd of Reindeer grazing in the heay by sparkling blue water was quite bizarre.
 |
| Reindeer on right - one dude staring at me, clearly thinking "Erm, where is all my snow?!" |
I was to swoop down the western edge of the island "Andøya", known to be the puffin island. It revealed rural fields looking out onto inlets of calm blue, with obviously snow-topped mountains being the permanent backdrop.
Lots of small villages passed, I was pleasantly surprised to find more regular places to buy water (I'm talking every 20mi maybe, as opposed to 50-70!).
Eventually I came to 'the blue city' of Sortland. Wow. Its bridge was framed by a collection of glistening white peaks, their beauty enhanced by the deep blue beam of water beneath them.
I met a local cyclist on the large cycle/pedestrian path which runs alogside the roads in the towns here (useful & safer, however often of a poor surface which hurts my saddle sores!). She had moved up from Oslo, but had regretted her decision sadly. She kindly pointed out a pharmacy for me. I nipped in to get some cream for another minor niggly issue, & treated myself to a 10min break with an ice pop in the sun :)
Only 20mi now to my campsite for the night, where I had the most peaceful dinner (thankfully pre-made: yesterday's pasta & lentils leftovers).
 |
| Oh yes! |
Day 9, 8/6/17:
Stokmarknes to Valberg, Lofoten
91mi - 1106m
Words will never adequately describe the beauty of this place. Unbelievable.
I like to leave plenty of time with catching ferries/planes etc (as things often, and do, go wrong. I've missed a flight previously, don't you know!). Sadly packing everything up took longer than planned, so I had less time to do the 10mi to catch the ferry to Melbu, the northern entry port to the Lofoten islands. Ahhh! I raced around the flat smooth tarmac, alongside the constant companion to my left of stunning white mountain after mountain - can't wait to be with you Lofotens!!
Passed a lot of school groups cycling. Kids don't say hey back - rude!
Made it 30min early, no way. I can clearly make up speed when i need to!
25min ferry journey later, I hit the main Lofoten road (E10), & within 2min I couldn't believe my eyes. They got quite wet.
Winding around the hillsides, I was passing each perfectly painted scene - deep blue waters, rising a mystical haze upwards to the jagged peaks framing them. Each mountain's snowy hairline was now receding with the heat, resulting in roaring waterfalls all around. Finally rich greenery dressed the banks of the water & the mountain edges, as if spring had just arrived.
I think I've found my new favourite place in the world.
Through to Svolvaer, one of the biggest towns, to get supplies for the day. Unfortunately I'm sometimes having to accept the odd non-vegan snacks for easy calories whilst on the road. Surprised my body can take animal products ok.
I'd chosen to split the Lofotens into two days, instead of one crazily long one. As a direct route, it'd only be 100ish miles. So because I felt I had two 'easy' days, I felt like I had the time & freedom to actually explore, & see the place. How exciting! Like on a 'real' cycle tour.
This meant that I inadvertently racked up the mileage...but in the most enjoyable way, & even with lots of little breaks!
I found the first of many a stunning beach, Rørvik. Then wound along the smaller roads to a fishing village, & apparently Lofotens climbing mecca (I'll definitely be coming back): Henningsvaer. Here I had a lunch stop with a Polish guy, he moves countries every 4-8months. He actually lived in Liverpool for a bit, & beamingly kept repeating how it's the best city in the world.
 |
| "Stockfish" - the process of hanging fish to dry, then ferment with bacteria. Can = a little smelly! |
Back to the E10, I had an option to do a 20mi detour around the circumference of a smaller island...hmm..it's 1700... I'm in no rush, & have another "easy" day tomorrow- let's do it!
Circling the quiet island of Gimsøya, I saw a seal after meeting a nature photographer (with a camera which I thought was a car engine!), more incredibly perfect deserted white beaches being lapped by bright aqua waters, & met some interesting looking birds in the hidden marshes on the back roads. Nearly out of water, & still in 24°C heat, I found their one shop, 15min before closing time- get in!
Finally onwards to my campsite for the night, where after setting up camp in the wind (that was difficult), & meeting the first english people this trip, I enjoyed my last packet of beanfeast (eh oh!) & pasta at around 2100.
Day 10, 9/6/17: Valberg to Å (south Lofotens)
Day 8 of riding - 69mi - 1070m
It gets even better.
Knowing a direct route to the end of the south Lofotens would only be around 50 miles, I allowed myself a later and relaxed start. In the sunny, morning heat, sat by the waters' edge of my campsite, I was sipping a coffee and catching up on the UK's catastrophic political issues - total bliss.
The english couple I'd met the previous day came along, and I found that they not only climb in the peaks, but own a house in the Pyrenees (amazing), the chap is a retired ITU consultant, and was actually also born on the Wirral!
Another fellow camper, from Germany, decided to rant at me for a while about how inappropriately stringent Norwegian speed limits are (80-90km ph on the biggest road, which suits me as a cyclist very nicely..), before I politely dismissed myself to pack up & head off.
My continuing knee pain has made me question my seat height, despite having had a 'bike fit' (where the bike was altered to suit the angles & measures of my body), pre-trip. I had adjusted it the previous day, to make it higher, which had briefly helped, but later on niggly 'pulling' had returned. Fortunately I'd packed a lightweight material tape measure for when I was rebuilding my bike after flying, and knowing my ideal measurement, I checked it. Hmm, it was much lower for some reason. I had a sneaky feeling it had been falling...
After 5 miles into the day it rapidly slumped down as I hit a lump on the road - bingo - this has been the issue!
The attachment of a bottle cage to my top tube, had actually stopped the clip that holds the seatube in place from fully tightening. So I moved the bottle cage, and forced the tightener back into position, and re-measured the seatube. Hopefully no further knee problems now. I feel like a proper cyclist/someone who knows what they're actually doing now ;) ha.
I felt I should indulge in some mild exploration once again today, & see some of the picturesque beaches these islands are famed for. Haukland beach was one of these, although as it is one of the biggest, it was extremely popular. I gave myself a short break to enjoy the GUACAMOLE I found at the supermarket in their largest town (oh yes! & cream-free, unlike the packaged stuff at home).
Further southwards towards Å, the next town for 20 miles, Napp, had nothing but a very cold and long sub-sea tunnel... nearly out of water, a kind local filled my bottle up from her kitchen. Yay! Note, I should always carry more water than required, even in places that seem well populated.
Hitting Vareid and the evening sun, the hamlet looked out over a fjord backed by a variance of mountain size and shapes, beyond 'Flakstad', all a hazy snow white. Stunning! The circumferential main road passed bay after bay of white sand being lapped by aqua waters, once again. So so beautiful.
Eventually downhill into the also famed town of Ramberg, I got some further supplies to take me the last 20-30 miles. This is when I was faced with the 'real' Lofoten villages, particularly one called Reine. They are the most cute miniature collections of traditional buildings: red and yellow wooden 'rorbuer' (fishermen's cabins), raised high above their calm sheltered waters on stilts. Curved around these settlements are jagged sun-blessed peaks. I had to take some moments to appreciate their tranquil beauty.
Unfortunately, I had left it quite late, approaching 20:30, and knowing I had dinner to cook (I was carrying the extra weight of chickpeas, stir fry veg, sauce & noodles), and a proceeding day of a 5am get up with a 100+ miles to do. It's very hard to enjoy the moment with this weighing heavily on my mind.
Onwards through some incredible balcony-type tunnels built into the cliffsides, I eventually got to a hostel at Å.
I chatted to a couple living in Trondheim, and met a very sweet English lady who lives in the same Peak District town as my grandmother, before heading straight to bed.
Thanks for your support and interest :)
Please help support aid in Syria - www.alaina.org.uk - Thank you!
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