Day 1 Nordkapp - Day 3 Alta
In The Beginning...
Day 1 - Arrival at Nordkapp - 16mi
"Snow is so unusual for this time of year - our worst May for a century!". Good to know.
Yes, so quite obviously during transit I was informed that both my bike & bag had not made it to Norway, but to continue on my flight to Alta & report it there. Brilliant.
By some miracle the now shabby cardboard box containing my bike arrived at Alta! Unfortunately all my other belongings did not...
I stayed with a lovely Chinese girl from 'couchsurfing' that night, however, realised the 24h of daylight isn't so cool when there are no curtains, & your eyemask is in your lost luggage. Unsure of my plan/how far I'd have to alter things, I headed into the tiny town 'sentrum' in search of caffeine & food, when I received the amazing news about my bag. Last bus is in 3h - I can make it to NK today afterall!
8 hours later, after meeting some incredibly helpful & friendly Norwegians, I was stood at the tourist centre of Nordkapp.
I set about building my bike, trying to minimise being a nuisance to the swarve looking establishment. Nothing but blue skies - I'm so lucky, I thought.
I then got interviewed by a Danish News channel, who were there for a Danish chap about to embark on a very long walk back home. Suddenly the skies greyed & a storm of white dust began hurtling around. A tourist bus arrived & showered me with shrieks & gasps as I donned all my layers to face the storm. "I know..." I said. Now or never!
After whipping my face & pushing me metres into the road, each angry blizzard reduced its rage within 5 minutes, leaving nothing but a cold, quiet calm, of pink purple and blue skies. Incredible.
Only 16 miles down this cold beautiful ice world, & I found my campsite.
Desperately searching for a loo, I was disturbed to find the toilet block locked!? I won't embarrass you with what happened.
Day 2 - Nordkapp to Olderfjord - 67mi - 1088m
Tunnels, Reindeer, & little food
Me - "why is nowhere open despite food/WCs being signposted on the road?!"
Man - "because it's out of season"
Me - "so when does the season start?"
Man - "today. But it is still low in the season."
...
My super lightweight X small roll mat doesn't reach my legs...& in sub zero, despite an adequate sleeping bag & 3x socks- I felt like my feet were in an ice bath all night!
Also found out this morning that there is another, open, toilet block. Ha.
Met a great couple from Birmingham in the campsite kitchen - they're a type of mountaineer, termed "ultra-baggers", & they take 6 months each year to have adventures such as this!
The next day they caught me on the road, cheered me on, & offered me biscuits. :)
Tunnels were the flavour of the day, all five of them, & I was well aware of the "scary" one which some cycle tourists prefer to avoid by boat/a very long diversion. It takes you from Mageroya to the mainland, & is 4.4km long, & descends sub-sea to 200m at a 10% gradient, then quite kindly returns upwards in the same way.
Some of these tunnels are extremely dark, so keeping to the side & trying to look like a flashing Christmas tree is the aim. It was quite bizarre to be honest, to be hurtling downhill in the dark, getting quite cold, to then be stuck slogging up a dark uphill (carrying FAR too much weight for this!!), feeling like your sweating in clothes made of plastic bags. It took a while.
The road hugged some lovely fjords, & despite the odd incline, headwind & hailstorm, each of these would disappear as fast as the road direction around the coast. Magic.
Wanting to keep calorie intake high, but not annihilate my safety stock of food, I hoped a village 2/3 of the way would have a shop (I'm sure it was supposed to...). Sure enough a sign for Repvaag appeared with a knife & fork symbol, & a 2km marker. Hmm, do I vear off route...I'm so close... yes, more food is always good.
After 2km of direct strong wind & rain, the shop/café was definitely closed.
It's ok, I have many cashews, some fruit & the odd bar left!
Arrived in "oolderfyor", as they say it here, to find, of course, that their only shop & café had also closed.
Cracking. The campsite tourist shop sold crisps & snickers, however.
Luckily I had packed some 'Beanfeast' (dried vegan ballognaise) from home, so had this with crisps. Then scoffed some crackers from the campsite kitchen too.
Day 3 - Olderfjord to Alta - 67mi - 1200m ascent
Stunning snowscapes vs saddlesore & knee pain!
Waiting until the shop opened at 10am, I met another cycle tourer (yay!) - a dutch chap, planning 100km per day to Gibraltar. Then got to practice my español with a lovely retired nurse from Barcelona.
I packed up & stocked up on lunch/snacks for the day, knowing that since Alta is bigger it would have places to buy dinner from.
The road climbed out of Oolderfyor, & my left knee started deeply aching, with the odd click. Great, day 2 of cycling!
It followed the river Alta through some stunning snow and tree covered valleys, & eventually climbed up onto the snowy plateau of Sennalandet.
This was quite exposed, hilly, & tough going in the wind for a while. Some of the totally white scenes completely took my breath away.
Eventually I had one thrilling & beautiful descent (which i can't make the most of - too many photo opportunities!).
Here I passed a giant frozen lake, then wound my way around 'Rafsbotn' waterside to reach Alta!
Ps lumpy roads are making my saddle wound cry out - and if I stand up to avoid the pain, my knee cries! Damn body!
My original Chinese host had been sweet enough to invite me around for dinner, however, I was on a selfish mission. I needed to purchase & prepare food to last 2 days, before doing a 100 miler tomorrow & heading into quite a remote area. I would also therefore need an early night for an early rise!
Fortunately I'd been kind enough to myself to book an Airbnb before a few big days ahead, and I met here a lovely Polish couple who had lost their hearts to Norway.
They informed me that not only would i be lucky to find anything open on a Sunday in Norway, but also the following Monday was a bank holiday, so, good luck to me on the road.
Made 2x dinners, & stored tomorrow's in a container from the shop's salad bar :D
Ready for the first 100miler, yes!
 |
| The road to Croatia?! |
Day 1 - Arrival at Nordkapp - 16mi
"Snow is so unusual for this time of year - our worst May for a century!". Good to know.
Yes, so quite obviously during transit I was informed that both my bike & bag had not made it to Norway, but to continue on my flight to Alta & report it there. Brilliant.
By some miracle the now shabby cardboard box containing my bike arrived at Alta! Unfortunately all my other belongings did not...
I stayed with a lovely Chinese girl from 'couchsurfing' that night, however, realised the 24h of daylight isn't so cool when there are no curtains, & your eyemask is in your lost luggage. Unsure of my plan/how far I'd have to alter things, I headed into the tiny town 'sentrum' in search of caffeine & food, when I received the amazing news about my bag. Last bus is in 3h - I can make it to NK today afterall!
8 hours later, after meeting some incredibly helpful & friendly Norwegians, I was stood at the tourist centre of Nordkapp.
I set about building my bike, trying to minimise being a nuisance to the swarve looking establishment. Nothing but blue skies - I'm so lucky, I thought.
I then got interviewed by a Danish News channel, who were there for a Danish chap about to embark on a very long walk back home. Suddenly the skies greyed & a storm of white dust began hurtling around. A tourist bus arrived & showered me with shrieks & gasps as I donned all my layers to face the storm. "I know..." I said. Now or never!
 |
| Nearly midnight around Nordkapp |
After whipping my face & pushing me metres into the road, each angry blizzard reduced its rage within 5 minutes, leaving nothing but a cold, quiet calm, of pink purple and blue skies. Incredible.
Only 16 miles down this cold beautiful ice world, & I found my campsite.
Desperately searching for a loo, I was disturbed to find the toilet block locked!? I won't embarrass you with what happened.
 |
| My bedroom view |
Day 2 - Nordkapp to Olderfjord - 67mi - 1088m
Tunnels, Reindeer, & little food
Me - "why is nowhere open despite food/WCs being signposted on the road?!"
Man - "because it's out of season"
Me - "so when does the season start?"
Man - "today. But it is still low in the season."
...
My super lightweight X small roll mat doesn't reach my legs...& in sub zero, despite an adequate sleeping bag & 3x socks- I felt like my feet were in an ice bath all night!
Also found out this morning that there is another, open, toilet block. Ha.
Met a great couple from Birmingham in the campsite kitchen - they're a type of mountaineer, termed "ultra-baggers", & they take 6 months each year to have adventures such as this!
The next day they caught me on the road, cheered me on, & offered me biscuits. :)
 |
| My new superfood - powering me through! Literally mashed banana soreen. Mmm. |
Some of these tunnels are extremely dark, so keeping to the side & trying to look like a flashing Christmas tree is the aim. It was quite bizarre to be honest, to be hurtling downhill in the dark, getting quite cold, to then be stuck slogging up a dark uphill (carrying FAR too much weight for this!!), feeling like your sweating in clothes made of plastic bags. It took a while.
The road hugged some lovely fjords, & despite the odd incline, headwind & hailstorm, each of these would disappear as fast as the road direction around the coast. Magic.
Wanting to keep calorie intake high, but not annihilate my safety stock of food, I hoped a village 2/3 of the way would have a shop (I'm sure it was supposed to...). Sure enough a sign for Repvaag appeared with a knife & fork symbol, & a 2km marker. Hmm, do I vear off route...I'm so close... yes, more food is always good.
After 2km of direct strong wind & rain, the shop/café was definitely closed.
 |
| Of course you are. |
Arrived in "oolderfyor", as they say it here, to find, of course, that their only shop & café had also closed.
Cracking. The campsite tourist shop sold crisps & snickers, however.
Luckily I had packed some 'Beanfeast' (dried vegan ballognaise) from home, so had this with crisps. Then scoffed some crackers from the campsite kitchen too.
 |
| Slightly warmer bedroom tonight |
Day 3 - Olderfjord to Alta - 67mi - 1200m ascent
Stunning snowscapes vs saddlesore & knee pain!
 |
| Sennalandet <3 |
I packed up & stocked up on lunch/snacks for the day, knowing that since Alta is bigger it would have places to buy dinner from.
 |
| That thing was sadly neither bread, nor vegan. :/ |
The road climbed out of Oolderfyor, & my left knee started deeply aching, with the odd click. Great, day 2 of cycling!
It followed the river Alta through some stunning snow and tree covered valleys, & eventually climbed up onto the snowy plateau of Sennalandet.
This was quite exposed, hilly, & tough going in the wind for a while. Some of the totally white scenes completely took my breath away.
 |
| My buddies for the day |
Eventually I had one thrilling & beautiful descent (which i can't make the most of - too many photo opportunities!).
Here I passed a giant frozen lake, then wound my way around 'Rafsbotn' waterside to reach Alta!
Ps lumpy roads are making my saddle wound cry out - and if I stand up to avoid the pain, my knee cries! Damn body!
 |
| Sorry bike, I'd stand you up if I could |
My original Chinese host had been sweet enough to invite me around for dinner, however, I was on a selfish mission. I needed to purchase & prepare food to last 2 days, before doing a 100 miler tomorrow & heading into quite a remote area. I would also therefore need an early night for an early rise!
Fortunately I'd been kind enough to myself to book an Airbnb before a few big days ahead, and I met here a lovely Polish couple who had lost their hearts to Norway.
They informed me that not only would i be lucky to find anything open on a Sunday in Norway, but also the following Monday was a bank holiday, so, good luck to me on the road.
 |
| Yes yes! Found tofu in a health shop in Alta - wok fried veg, & smoked tofu, with lettuce just for some healthy greens ! |
Made 2x dinners, & stored tomorrow's in a container from the shop's salad bar :D
Ready for the first 100miler, yes!
Well done Alaina! Keep it up. Lovely photos. Sounds very tiring. Hope your knee and bum hold up. Fran Xx
ReplyDeleteThanks very much!
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